Sky Full of Bacon


Stephanie Izard has a new video about visiting Allen Brothers, which is better than the first two, if like me, you define better as “less clowning around, more actual chef skills and food related content.” It’s an interesting visit… though I have to think there are scarier parts of Allen Brothers they could have shown us. Oh well, I guess she has her niche (cute and perky) and I have mine (blood dripping from eyeless carcasses)….

(By the way, Ms. Izard doesn’t especially need me touting her videos, but others might benefit from the exposure, so consider this a standing invitation to send me any food videos you’ve made that I can embed (YouTube, Vimeo, etc.)  I’ll happily consider them for posting.  Email Mikegebert roundthingy gmail dottie commie, or post a comment.)

So Monday night I went to a press event at mado for The Local Beet, my friends Michael Morowitz and Rob Gardner’s local eating site which, if you’re reading this, you probably know about.  I’ve contributed very modestly to it (mainly they feature my podcasts whenever they relate to local eating, which is fairly often since it is, after all, local filming) but it’s rapidly becoming a great overall resource for what’s at farmer’s markets, how to incorporate local eating into your diet, etc.  It also looks so much sharper than it did when it started.  A couple of particular things to check out:

• Michael has a great guide to CSAs, just in time to order and start getting weird vegetables every week.

• Melissa Graham has a very interesting piece on local honey (“Not to be indelicate, but it could be said that honey is bee barf”), which as someone who’s been enjoying the heck out of raspberry-tinged honey I bought at Green City last winter, I concur with entirely.  (It was the Bron’s raspberry honey, which Melissa also raves about in a buyer’s guide at the end.)

Meanwhile, I got lucky at the press event.  No, not that way.  I won a jar of pickled beets from Vie.  Not many people would get as excited about beets as a door prize as me, but I couldn’t be more pleased.

You may not feel the need to read another why-newspapers-are-dying piece— one example of how Big Journalism is out of touch with its readers is how much more fascinated it is with its own demise than they are— but you should read Whet Moser’s entry in the Reader, which is much more practical and down to earth than most.

Unlike a lot of me-hate-bloggers professionals, Moser accurately understands why blogging and other forms of online activity have eaten Big Journo’s lunch: “Some of these people writing for free are better at writing than many of the people who are paid to write… Traditional journalism, in 2009 AD, is boring and kind of uninformative.”

This is cruel but true enough. Partisan, passionate, snarky, occasionally fearsomely well-informed bloggers have written rings around much of journalism. There are two reasons for this, one of which Moser sees, one he doesn’t, quite. The first is because sometimes, they are the very experts who, in past days, journalists would have called for a quote. In that case journalism is just another middleman displaced by the internet. No, the average 22-year-old spouting off about the Supreme Court may not know what he’s talking about, but it’s a safe bet Richard Posner does, and when you can read Posner directly, you don’t need the newspaper reducing him to a “but critics say” soundbite in some reporter’s piece. The clueless 22-year-old loudmouth is merely a side effect of the freedom that makes Posner’s blog possible, and easily ignored.

In every area where I’ve abandoned mass media for some new online form, it’s been because it has brought me closer to the experts in the field, to people who really know what they’re talking about. That’s as true of thoughtful eaters at LTHForum as it is of silent film preservationists at my old movie chat board NitrateVille. Everything I participate in online gives me a more intense, more deeply informed experience of that subject than I had in the old mass media days. I probably have less broad knowledge than when I subscribed to Newsweek and had the world digested for me that way, but I have much, much deeper knowledge in a few areas I care about.

But here’s the flip side Moser doesn’t quite see. He understands that part of what has made newspaper writing boring and staid is that the institutional voice has taken over. Newspapers once encouraged stars, bright voices, strong personalities, today they’re no more supportive of idiosyncrasy and boatrocking than any other large corporation. (Look how quickly the Tribune got rid of Bob Greene once they had the chance. Yes, he sucked, but he had a huge following— yet they couldn’t get rid of him fast enough when he had a little scandal, the first time anybody in journalism ever hit on a source.) Moser’s right on the atmosphere side of that equation, and why that allows free, irresponsible, lively blogging to steal readers from the snoozily middle-of-the-road David Broders of the world.

But beyond a tone problem, newspapers really have a structural business problem, which is that they’re chasing a mass audience at a time when the mass audience is going away. They were built on the fact that Marshall Field’s wanted to advertise women’s apparel to the whole city, or at least the upper 2/3rds of it, and would pay the bills for a publication that went to the entire middle class. But that stopped being how people shopped in 1975, and now it’s stopped being how they read, too.

Moser brings up Redeye as an example of something that seems to be working, after a fashion. But I think he draws the completely wrong conclusions from it. Redeye is a last gasp, an example of newspapers chasing the people who don’t read newspapers with something so short and catchy they’ll hopefully read it by accident. But even if a lot of people read it on the subway, it’s hard to see how you survive by chasing after the people least interested in reading. If they’re just barely involved with your freebie paper, why should advertisers think they’ll be any more involved with their ad?

Surely the people you really want to chase are the ones who are so deeply involved with what they’re involved with that they left newspapers behind for something more involving. Like me. The trouble is, Redeye still looks like a mass audience while the new, highly involved microaudiences plainly do not. What neither media nor ad agencies have yet figured out how to do is make the case that 1000 or 5000 fanatics are a better audience than a half million casual glancers— that their conversion rate from ad to sale is infinitely higher because they’re so deeply involved. That, bluntly, 5000 people who really care about something will buy more of your product in real numbers, not just per person, than 500,000 people who picked up something free and left it behind them on the El.

The newspaper that figures this out will break itself up into a bunch of individual online media outlets, cross-promoting each other to be sure to drive traffic, but mainly aimed at a sliver of their present audience— but a sliver that’s really worth something to somebody. Where once you had the Sears-like, everything in one store newspaper, now you need the lots-of-different-stores mall.

This is part of the reason I do Sky Full of Bacon, my conviction that there’s an intensely interested few-thousand-person audience out there worth having (on monetary, ultimately, and non-monetary levels). Moser ends his piece with a rather woolly and pretentious quote from the supremely pretentious New Yorker writer George W.S. Trow, which he sees as condemning the post-apocalyptic triviality of Redeye:

“The middle distance fell away, so the grids (from small to large) that had supported the middle distance fell into disuse and ceased to be understandable. Two grids remained. The grid of two hundred million and the grid of intimacy. Everything else fell into disuse. There was a national life—a shimmer of national life—and intimate life. The distance between these two grids was very great. The distance was very frightening.”

What I guess this means is that Redeye will tell you Obama was elected, and it will tell you how Rihanna is recuperating, but it won’t drill into the boring middle and tell you what the Treasury Department is doing with your money. I see Trow’s analogy very differently, though. I think all mass media, even august 100-year-old dailies, are basically good at giving you headlines and get much less good very quickly at digging into stuff (though when they do it well, they do it very well indeed). Meanwhile, we the people are creating a new “grid of intimacy” in which many of us are finding a much more intense level of interaction with whatever subject most fascinates us. Fewer of us know much about any one thing, but those of us who do know it better than ever before.

And that might very well be better for democracy, in the long run, than the last hundred years of filtering everything through the mediating, moderating sensibilities of large journalistic organizations. Or not; but either way, it’s happening.

I have a post at the Reader’s Food Chain blog about Operetta, one of Chicago’s few remaining Czech restaurants.  Here are some more photos to set the scene (the Reader only shows one):

And if this is your first time here, click the Video Podcasts link at the right under Categories to see the main purpose of Sky Full of Bacon.

This week’s Save This Restaurant column in Time Out Chicago is about C.J.’s Eatery in West Humboldt Park, whence came the shrimp and grits seen above, and it’s by me.

The LTHForum Great Neighborhood Restaurants awards, which I largely invented, are now in the process of renewing and even re-renewing numerous past designees. Is your pulse pounding yet? Are you on the edge of your seat, waiting to see if Xni-Pec or Barbara Ann’s are still any good?

No, you are not. That’s because the overwhelming likelihood is that every single past designee will be renewed. You are all Top Chefs! The awards were designed, in part, to spur discussion, but at the moment they have the effect of smothering it in tedium, encouraging people to post vague words of support which are rarely rooted in a recent visit (look at the Cafeteria Marianao threads, where GWiv’s 2009 word of support for renewal is practically the first post since Gwiv’s 2007 word of support for renewal) but providing no incentive for anyone to stick their neck out and knock a place based on actual experience, or even question if anyone goes there any more.

I don’t blame anyone for this, but it’s a clear structural problem that is pretty much guaranteed to keep the list bloated up with whatever people were talking about four years ago. And the more foreordained the results are, the less and less likely it is that anyone will say anything interesting to challenge a designee in the future. Clearly a new structure for the renewal process is needed, one that reintroduces some drama into the mix and encourages people to participate, but in the meantime, I have a suggestion for something the judges could do that would surprise everyone, get some press attention and make the awards lively and vital again:

Vote down “Little” Three Happiness.

Could LTHForum actually torpedo the place that gave it its name? By the stated criteria for continued designation as a GNR, yes, absolutely. LTH was always a mixed bag as a restaurant— you could have a very good meal there IF you followed Gwiv’s instructions on how to tell them how to make a good meal, ordered only what he said to order, and doctored it with his chili oil, kept in the fridge there for Friends of Gary. Compare that to Lao Sze Chuan or Sun Wah, the current overwhelming board favorites in the Chinese department, where you practically can’t order something, even randomly, that isn’t wonderful.

Precisely for that reason, it seems obvious from a review of posts in the last two years that Lao Sze Chuan and Sun Wah have taken the place that LTH once held, even among its strongest partisans. Only newbies go there and, usually, are disappointed by the mediocre food they try ordering on their own, leaving them feeling burned and hesitant to use the GNR list in the future. What could make a better statement of how the LTHForum Great Neighborhood Restaurants are a living, constantly evolving and vibrant list than by retiring, with thanks and fond memories which will live on in the form of old posts, a restaurant once beloved but now, in the cold light of day, supplanted by others.

It’s supposed to be good news for us food adventurers when we discover new favorites that make old favorites seem not so good. It’s time for the GNR awards to reflect that constant spirit of discovery and critical reevaluation— not to offer the opinions of 2004, preserved forever.

Mike’s List of GNR Renewal Candidates Which May Be Very Good, But Haven’t Met The Standard of Continued Trial, Discussion And Praise in the Renewal Period of 2007-9:
Barbara Ann’s
White Palace Grill
Ed’s Potsticker House
Fabulous Noodles
“Little” Three Happiness
Cafeteria Marianao
Klas
Riviera
Sabatino’s
Amanacer Tapatio
La Oaxaquena
Deta’s Cafe
Il Mulino
La Pasadita
Xni-Pec

Stephanie Izard had a restaurant called Scylla— I ate at it twice, here and here, to somewhat mixed feelings— and then she went on a little show called Top Chef and won it. Now she has a restaurant in the works, called The Drunken Goat, but she also has something else in the works… which is, she’s started making little podcasts, about 4 or 5 minutes long, in which she visits something in the world of food that she knows about, and… well, she gets perky.

Here’s the second and more interesting one so far, in which she visits Giles Schnierle, well known on the Chicago restaurant scene as the cheesemonger who brings numerous American artisanal cheeses to town:

And here, while we’re at it, is the first one, in which she visits Three Floyds in Munster:

My first thought, before I watched them, was, well, if it’s amateurish at least it will be a real chef showing us around, and if it’s good it will be cool that it’s a real chef showing us around.  Having seen them… now I’m more curious about what their purpose actually is, because although she visits two places that would be interesting, she kind of doesn’t do anything to show them to us.  I mean, we get a little glimpse of interesting things in each place, but we don’t actually talk to the people, we don’t find out about what they do and how they do it— we only get Stephanie clowning around and mugging for the camera.  (Well, she is cute as a button.)

And these are no home movies.  They’re slickly done; watch the opening sequence in each where we see her sitting at her table, writing the narration.  There’s a bunch of shots in that sequence, which means someone is making sure to get lots of choices so the editor can keep up a vigorous, rhythmic pace of editing.  It’s more professional in that sense than my videos; I shoot much more idiosyncratically and less systematically, one-man-band that I am, and cut more idiosyncratically as a result to make the best of having plenty of choices or not enough.

But who are these pros?  We don’t know because they’re not credited—the music and the animated credits are, but not the actual production.  So we have videos clearly designed to showcase Izard’s likable personality and Rachel Ray-sized smile, shot by some mystery folks.  It’d be a good, if potentially expensive, way to build interest in a restaurant and its chef, and if Izard becomes the first internet video celebrity chef as a result, well, more power to her for being the first to take advantage of new media and technology that way.  But I wonder if there isn’t more to it than that, and if these aren’t meant to serve, in some way, as pilots for a future TV venture for her.  Some production company is betting on her and doing these to promote the idea and show what she could do.

Well, I’d love to see a chef do this kind of program, bringing a perspective different than mine for one, but at this point Izard’s videos are heavy on the personality and light on the content— I wanted to hear from the people we visit, not watch her goof around.  (Of course, what I want may have nothing to do with what they want to sell.)  It feels to me like the kind of thing that will wear thin quickly, so even if the purpose of these videos is mainly to showcase her perky persona, I hope they’ll give her a chance to go into more depth in the future and really give us a chef’s perspective and insight.

500 views on Vimeo is sort of my milestone, I want to see every podcast get at least that many to be worth doing it.  And #8, Pear Shaped World, the most recent one, passed it today.  (Or depending on your definition, will pass it as soon as viewer number 501 clicks.)  So now that’s one over 5000 (Eat This City, #7), one more over 2500 (The Last Brisket Show, #3), two more over 1000 (#1, How Local Can You Go?, and #4, A Head’s Tale), and all eight of them over 500 on Vimeo— plus an unknowable number of views via iTunes (there are about 100 subscribers, but they all automatically download whether or not they actually watch it, so the best I can say is, about 100 more folks download each one).  All told, it adds up to my best guess for total viewership being over 14,000 so far.

So I zipped by Moto today and shot a quick interview about raccoon meat with mad scientist chef Homaro Cantu, star of the only Iron Chef episode you really need to watch ever. Three observations:

1. 11:46, while waiting outside, I took out my camera, assembled it onto my monopod, and began shooting exterior shots of Moto’s signage. 11:48, a guy came out of the packing company next door wanting to know if I was taking pictures of them. It was an interesting little standoff; he wasn’t threatening at all, but he was so resolutely good cop, chatting me up genially but persistently even after I said I wasn’t and was just there to talk to Cantu, that it was obvious bad cop was just inside waiting to hear how it went and escalate it if need be, the way Sonny escalated things with the photographers outside Connie’s wedding.

That’s in case you forgot that the warehouse district that Moto, Follia etc. live in isn’t just a stage backdrop for hip restaurants.

2. Cantu’s voice sounds almost exactly like Doug “Hot Doug” Sohn’s. Separated at birth!

3. I started shooting at 12:05 and was out by 12:20. Cantu said the last camera crew he had in there was shooting a short testimonial type thing for an event. They brought 14 people and a teleprompter, and took nine hours.

If you read this blog, you probably haven’t seen the top-level skyfullofbacon.com page since you first found it. It’s a directional page that links you to the blog, the Vimeo page listing all the videos, the About post, etc. And it’s been a picture of downtown Chicago (which I took from an Amtrak train, incidentally) since the beginning— before the beginning, when Sky Full of Bacon was a gleam in my eye and something I was telling friends I was going to do, no really, after I left LTHForum.

Well, I’ve finally changed it to reflect not what Sky Full of Bacon intended to be but what it is. So check it out.