Sky Full of Bacon


First off: I promise this is not merely going to be an Andy Rooneyish crotchety rant against Facebook and Twitter, though that is territory we will pass through before we arrive at our real destination.

So, vaguely sensing that there might be some advantage to them for making Sky Full of Bacon better known and thus more viewed (which is its point, after all), I joined both Facebook and Twitter. So now I have my Facebook page, Sky Full of Bacon’s Facebook page, and a Twitter feed (I guess you don’t have a Twitter page, you have a feed).

Now all I lack is a reason why I want any of these things. I have posted a few things on Facebook, but only with an enormous amount of self-consciousness which has inhibited me from posting other, more trivial or cryptic things. You know, I can imagine that there are three or four people out there who might read my comments on a restaurant, but I really do not believe that there is, or even should be, an audience for the non-restaurant minutiae of my life (“Walked the dog over the same path we’ve already walked a thousand times. He will probably live to walk it 15,000 more times”), or who needs me to direct them to that British Idol video with the middle-aged woman who sings her heart out (apparently; I haven’t watched it, I’ve just seen 12,000 Facebook links to it), or who will take interest if I post something truly cryptic, as others seem to:

Michael Gebert is wondering why we don’t have utensils for our feet.

I guess I can see the appeal of Facebook, on a chitchat with friends level, even if it’s mostly not for me. Twitter I found even more mysterious at first, its 140 character limit, lack of graphical interest and general tendency toward borderline incomprehensibility bothering the writer in me:

@funguy Plz check out singer wow i couldn believe www.tinnyurl.com/3dkjf387r4

Until I finally realized, that’s not a bug, that’s a killer app. It’s the very fact that you can’t craft well-written prose in Twitter, that all you can do is take your latest brain fart and dispatch it to the world in telegraphese, that makes it appealing. (Okay, we’re getting really close to Andy Rooney here, I know. Hold on.) It’s the great leveller, the fact that Thomas Pynchon and your Aunt Marge both have to write in the same dash-it-off style, that makes Twitter appealing as a way to get the pleasure of blogging your minutiae to the world— without needing the skills to write interestingly, even by the greatly diminished standards of blogdom. It’s a shortcut to an audience— which is what makes that British Idol woman, who went from utter obscurity to world fame without ever having tried to be merely a professional, the perfect Twitter subject. (So what would be the Great American Tweet? @Gatsby money’s great but lost love hauntz— drive safe)

I still have some reservations about this— in many ways I think Facebook gets the virtues of communities like LTHForum exactly backwards.  There, I didn’t care about your banal political or TV-viewing or whatever views, and you didn’t care about mine; we met on neutral ground where we had something to contribute, and people who were strangers in every other way could find each other and at least talk food.  Now I have to take the people I met somewhere else, and find out how banal each others’ views on everything but food are.  Clearly some know how to grow their base of friends via Facebook, but it seems likely to shrink mine.

But beyond that, there’s something really weird about all this that has only slowly dawned on me.  Which is, by becoming a publisher to the world, by becoming a one-person media source, as internet technology has allowed me to do, I also take on the curse of all mass media, which is, the curse of having to chase an audience and maintain one’s popularity.  In short, of living or dying by the numbers.

This is a problem that ordinary people didn’t have before— that of being able to know exactly how well one’s latest missives are being read or not read, of being able to track one’s popularity in minute ways.  Every new form of media comes with some form of feedback.  Sometimes it’s quite precise (or at least gives the illusion of such)— I can see exactly how many people watched my podcasts on Vimeo each day, and chart their ebb and flow daily, if I wish.  Sometimes it’s a little more secondhand— if no one responds to what I put on Facebook, is it because they rolled their eyes and ignored it, or because I said it so succinctly and perfectly that further comment is superfluous?

One can follow this to quite a neurotic degree if one wishes, self-esteem rising or falling with the numbers, but beyond its crazymaking potential, it also subjects ordinary people to the same pressures that studio execs and TV producers and so on have so often given in to, disastrously for their work— that of tinkering to make this or that a little more appealing to the audience, in hopes of grabbing an extra point or two of audience share or a slightly bigger opening weekend.  For someone like me, whose professional life in advertising has often involved being a bit of a stylistic chameleon depending on what product I was writing for, it’s all too easy to imagine creating an ever-more false persona who gives the audience what they want, rather than blogging for one’s self and a certain truthfulness about what you’re doing.

So this is the weird we live now, in which each of us seems to be connected to a Nielsen home (or, as Herman Mankiewicz said when Columbia chief Harry Cohn explained that a picture was good if he didn’t wriggle in his seat, “Imagine—the whole world wired to Harry Cohn’s ass!”)  For some this will be fine; blogging will be a business, and the business will involve projecting an image which is only tenuously related to any reality, and the more popular it gets, the better.

Me, I don’t want to live like that, and maybe I can say that because it’s still not a business for me, it’s a mildly lucrative hobby.  I want an audience, sure, but I don’t want to do anything to get it, for the sake of my own truthfulness, my own journey (to use a cliche of the moment), I want to maintain a little of the sangfroid toward audience-pandering that T.E Lawrence had.  When he first came back from Arabia, he arranged to have published, privately, his journal of his experiences (what would eventually become Revolt in the Desert).  The printer asked how many copies he wanted, and so he replied that he had estimated the intelligent audience in England for an account of what was really going on in the middle east, and he had determined… nine copies.

Then, when they arrived, he decided he had been overoptimistic, and destroyed two of them.

TELawrence says U R a silly people, vain, barbarous & cruel.  But desert rocks!!!


The Cheeseburger Show, Ep. 1 from The Cheeseburger Show on Vimeo.

Sure, Chicago has a sky full of bacon, but it does it have enough cheeseburgers to sustain a series of shows on that subject? I’m not sure; most of the really good cheeseburgers I know of in town are referenced in this first episode. All the same, this is a solid effort at expanding one’s personal brand onto video from a ChiTrib food writer, which strikes a nice balance between a Food TV-ish fast pace and actually having some meatiness (pun only marginally intended) in the subject matter. I’m all for it, and more, from our local print folks as their industry transitions into whatever it’s going to become.

P.S. I went to the Cheeseburger Show’s page at Vimeo and this was actually completed in January (but, presumably, kept out of view except for internal Trib purposes). So hopefully more episodes will follow fairly shortly and they’ve been busy all this time. Still, I find it a little old school (and not in a good way) that they did a pilot and then sat on it for 3 months. Get it out to the world and let people see it and comment on it! (Which you actually can’t do anywhere, since the Vimeo page only allows approved contacts to comment and the show’s own site isn’t really up either.) This is what the web is all about, something a newspaper struggling to find new ways to reach its readers ought to be taking advantage of more than anybody.* Throw it out there, fail in public, learn from the reaction to each one as you go— I certainly have. Number 2 and 3 would be better already if we’d all had the chance to comment back in January on this one. Or even to comment now….

* Yes, I know it’s mainly on CLTV. Which is only on Comcast. So for lots of us, it’s only on the web. And that’s how they should be thinking, anyway.

UPDATE: Episode 2 is here, it says it went up 16 days ago.  So it sounds like having shot their 10-minute video for fun in January, it then spent three months being carefully deliberated within the Tribune company before they were given a green light for #2.  As stories of corporate mucketies not getting it goes, maybe not up there with this truly classic one, but still, that’s some pre-Internet lack of speed happening at the Trib tower at a time when they need to be trying lots of things and getting them out as fast as they can. C’mon, well-bonused execs, he’s trying to save your company, cut Kevin and a zillion like him loose.

So a guy posted this video about his visit to Alinea at LTHForum:

Which, he proudly pointed out, attracted attention (here and here) on Grant Achatz’s Twitter feed.

I just couldn’t resist:

Please don’t take the quality of this video as indicative of anything about Sky Full of Bacon videos… which can be found here.

Reviewing 47 possible candidates for Great Neighborhood Restaurant award renewal, the august board of GNR voting members has… denied renewal to one, White Palace Grill. Officially, everything else is still great.

Personally, I’d take a good look at how long it’s been since the last actual post reflective of an actual visit to any place I had doubts about.  A lot of the info on LTHForum is getting a bit long in the tooth, what with the board increasingly concentrating on revisits to the same handful of places and the official insistence that places that have clearly and unequivocally gone downhill— such as Salam— were merely caught on an off day.  (I think my last on day at Salam was in 2006.)

Those caveats aside, it is still a key list to the many of the notable ethnic restaurants in town, it just takes a little more sorting through these days to separate the actually good from the sentimental favorites that need to be put out to pasture.  Let’s join Dicksond in thanking those responsible for the program… well, most of them, anyway.

UPDATE: Helen at MenuPages links (thanks!) and says I cry foul. Well, more like unforced error. The excitement in a list like this comes from the real chance that something you like might not be measured as being good enough. When all the children are above average, there’s no drama (and consequently little media interest)— and the list becomes less trustworthy when it grows and grows with virtually no pruning.

In a way this goes back to the issue raised a couple of weeks ago about the Chicago Reader’s Best of here and here, which were, to no small extent, an LTHForum best of since LTHers chose many of the places and wrote about them. Information moves so fast in our foodie community that it’s easy for places to become old hat fast— discover Sun Wah this week, get tired of it next week. Now, I think there’s still value in writing about some of these places because the masses out there, who don’t read the foodie stuff obsessively, won’t have picked up on things by the time we’re tired of them. But, you need to approach them with a critical eye, have a certain ruthlessness about replacing older places with newer ones, be ever more vigilant for new and interesting. The problem is not that there are still some 2004 choices on the GNR list, but that it seems so heavily weighted to 2004 choices, it seems like a 2004 list. Clean out the old, be on the lookout for the new, and it will be a better list.

That is, assuming there still is real interest at LTHForum for looking out for the new…

UPDATE 2: Credit Where Credit Is Due Dept.: Something new is actually posted on LTHForum.

What are the odds of two people making videos about eating raccoon in the upper midwest in the same week?

I don’t know, but here’s the Detroit News’ Charlie LeDuff, talking to a guy who traps them in the reclaimed wildernesses of Detroit.

For my raccoon video, go here.

And so here goes the final set of links to Beard-worthy stuff.

AUDIO WEBCAST OR RADIO SHOW

Living Today, Martha Stewart Living Radio: José Andrés (not available online)
Host: Mario Bosquez
Area: Nationwide U.S.
Producers: Naomi Gabay and Lauren Gould

Graperadio.com: Thomas Jefferson and Wine
Hosts: Brian Clark, Eric Anderson, and Jay Selman
Area: Online
Producer: Jay Selman

WINNER: WNYC, The Leonard Lopate Show: 3-Ingredient Challenge
Hosts: Leonard Lopate and Rozanne Gold
Area: New York City Metro, Online
Producer: Sarah English

VIDEO WEBCAST

Obsessives: School Lunch Revolutionary
Chow.com
Producer: Meredith Arthur

The Art of Blending
Hosts: Brian Clark, Eric Anderson, and Jay Selman
Graperadio.com
Producers: Jay Selman and Mark Ryan

WINNER: Savoring the Best of World Flavors, Volume III: Vietnam and the Island of Sicily
Host: Jonathan Coleman
Ciaprochef.com/WCA3/
Producers: John Barkley, Kenneth Wilmoth, Greg Drescher, Steve Jilleba, and Janet Fletcher

TELEVISION FOOD SHOW, NATIONAL AND LOCAL

WINNER: Lidia’s Italy: Sweet Napoli (not available online)
Host: Lidia Matticchio Bastianich
Network: PBS
Producers: Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, Julia Harrison, and Shelly Burgess Nicotra

The Château Dinner: A French Food at Home Special with Laura Calder (not available online)
Host: Laura Calder
Network: Food Network Canada
Producer: Johanna Eliot

We Live to Eat: New Orleans’ Love Affair with Food (not available online)
Network: PBS
Producers: e/Prime Media and the Historic New Orleans Collection

TELEVISION FOOD SEGMENT, NATIONAL AND LOCAL

ABC News, Nightline: Platelist (links to one example of series)
Hosts: Martin Bashir, Cynthia McFadden, and Terry Moran
Network: ABC
Producer: Sarah Rosenberg

WINNER: CBS News Sunday Morning: In a Pinch (link to transcript)
Host: Martha Teichner
Network: CBS
Producers: Jon Carras and David Small

ABC 7 News Friday Night Special: Hungry Hound
Host: Steve Dolinsky
Network: ABC
Producer: Badriyyah Waheed

By the way, thanks to Helen at MenuPages and Jeff at Chicagomag’s Dish for making sure I was included in the mentions of the nomination for The Whole Hog Project, and to The Local Beet for putting me in the headline!  And to all the old friends gracious enough to email congratulations or make note of it on their own sites.

Now, on to the rest of the Journalism nominees, and as many links as we can find.  I’ll have one more post for the Broadcast Media awards.

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
“A Proper Brasserie,” “A Fine Palate,” “Pho Town”

WINNER: Adam Platt
New York Magazine
“Faux French,” “The Mario of Midtown,” “Corton on Hudson”

Tom Sietsema
The Washington Post
“Great Expectations,” “Robo Restaurant,” “An Earned Exclamation”

BLOG FOCUSING ON FOOD, BEVERAGE, RESTAURANTS, OR NUTRITION

Andrew Knowlton
The BA Foodist
Bonappetit.com

Hank Shaw
Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
Honest-food.net

WINNER: Erika Ehmsen, Elizabeth Jardina, Rick LaFrentz, Amy Machnak, Johanna Silver, Margaret Sloan, and Margo True
Our One-Block Diet
Oneblockdiet.sunset.com

FOOD-RELATED COLUMNS

Dorie Greenspan
Bon Appétit
“Bacon-Cheddar Quick Bread,” “All-Purpose Holiday Cake,” “My Go-To Dough”

WINNER: Corby Kummer
The Atlantic
“A Papaya Grows in Holyoke,” “Beyond the McIntosh,” “Half a Loaf”

Laura Shapiro
Gourmet.com
“Campaign Cookies,” “Why Does America Hate Ratatouille?,” “The Lord is my Chef”

WEBSITE FOCUSING ON FOOD, BEVERAGE, RESTAURANTS, OR NUTRITION

Chow.com
Jane Goldman

WINNER: Epicurious.com
Tanya Steel

Gourmet.com
Ruth Reichl

and last but not least…

MULTIMEDIA FOOD JOURNALISM

Ruth Reichl
Gourmet.com
“Gourmet Cookbook Club”

WINNER: Ruth Reichl
Gourmet.com
“The Test Kitchen”

Mike Sula
Chicagoreader.com
“The Whole Hog Project” (including Sky Full of Bacon podcasts)

Oh, cruel irony… first I’m overlooked in the LTHForum post about my half of a Beard nomination and then Hammond posts about some guy in Miami who had the same thought I did, about linking to the Beard nominees. What do I have to do to get some attention there, insult Little Three Happiness?

Anyway, time for more Beard nominees, I’ll continue by digging through the magazine articles (reviews and columns will be in the next installment).  Unfortunately, a couple of them are not available online.

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING ABOUT RESTAURANTS AND/OR CHEFS

WINNER: Ruth Reichl
Gourmet
“The Last Time I Saw Paris…” (not online; a related online piece is here)

Alan Richman
Departures
“Eating Small in New York”

Anya von Bremzen
Food & Wine
“The Grilling Genius of Spain”

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING WITH RECIPES

WINNER: Edna Lewis
Gourmet
“What is Southern?”*
*published posthumously

David Dobbs
Recipes by John Ash
EatingWell
“The Wild Salmon Debate: A Fresh Look at Whether Eating Farmed Salmon is…Well…OK”

James Peterson
Saveur
“Mother Sauce: The Ancient Art of the Saucier is Alive and Well in the Kitchens of Paris and Beyond” (not online)

MAGAZINE FEATURE WRITING WITHOUT RECIPES

WINNER: Alan Richman
GQ
“Made (Better) in Japan”

Patricia Sharpe and the staff members of Texas Monthly Magazine
Texas Monthly
“BBQ 08 (The Top 50 BBQ Joints in Texas)” (some parts available, most not)

Monique Truong
Gourmet
“My Cherry Amour”

REPORTING ON NUTRITION OR FOOD-RELATED CONSUMER ISSUES

Barry Estabrook
Gourmet
“Greens of Wrath”

Mark Adams, Amanda Fortini, Melissa Kirsch, Josh Ozersky, Rob Patronite, Adam Platt, and Robin Raisfeld
New York Magazine
“What Good is Breakfast?”

WINNER: Rachael Moeller Gorman
EatingWell
“How to Feed Your Mind”

WRITING ON SPIRITS, WINE, OR BEER

Jon Bonné
San Francisco Chronicle
“Revolution by the Glass”

Jay McInerney
Men’s Vogue
“Billionaire Winos”

WINNER: Alan Richman
GQ
“Viva La Revolucion!”

M.F.K. FISHER DISTINGUISHED WRITING AWARD

Celia Barbour
O, The Oprah Magazine
“Knead, Pray, Love”

WINNER: Aleksandra Crapanzano
Gourmet
“Benedictions”

Alan Richman
GQ
“My Sweet Life”

UPDATE: Monica Eng’s nominated slaughterhouse piece (which, again, is highly recommended reading) has a new, more readable link here.

As I found when I did a book on movie awards some years ago, the same organizations that make such a fuss over their ceremonies for awards often give short shrift to anyone’s ability to see what was considered award-worthy, or even to know what it actually was— there were titles from the major foreign film festivals, for instance, which had vanished completely (what were you, Golden Harvest of the Witwatersrand, that Venice gave you an award in the 30s?)

So I’m going to try to track down a bunch of the Beard-nominated food journalism and give you the chance to check it out for yourself.  Someday, online award lists will have links. Until then, here for starters are the newspaper nominees.  Enjoy some good eatin’-readin’.

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING ABOUT RESTAURANTS AND/OR CHEFS

Monica Eng, Phil Vettel
Chicago Tribune
“Big Night. Big Mystery: Why Did Michael Carlson Vanish the Day After Serving Dinner to the Greatest Chefs in the World?”

WINNER: Katy McLaughlin
The Wall Street Journal
“Sushi Bullies”

Tom Sietsema
The Washington Post
“Sound Check” (I think this piece is the correct one, though it has a different title here)

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING WITHOUT RECIPES

Monica Eng
Chicago Tribune
“Morality Bites: Mustering Some Sympathy for the Bedeviled Ham and Beef”

WINNER: Kristen Hinman
Riverfront Times
“The Pope of Pork”

Craig LaBan
The Philadelphia Inquirer
“The Tender and the Tough”

NEWSPAPER FEATURE WRITING WITH RECIPES

WINNER: Rebekah Denn
Seattle Post-Intelligencer
“High on the Hairy Hogs: Super-Succulent Imports are Everything U.S. Pork Isn’t” (abstract onlyfull article now!)

David Leite
The New York Times
“Perfection? Hint: It’s Warm and Has a Secret”

Kathleen Purvis
The Charlotte Observer
“The Belly of the Beast”

NEWSPAPER FOOD SECTION

Chicago Tribune
Carol Mighton Haddix

San Francisco Chronicle
Jon Bonné and Miriam Morgan

WINNER: The Washington Post
Joe Yonan

Incidentally, Monica Eng’s ham and beef piece is the one about slaughterhouses which I linked to when I posted the “There Will Be Pork” podcasts, it is definitely worth reading (not that most of them aren’t). The one that’s a mystery to me is David Leite’s one about aging your cookie dough overnight before baking cookies. One, it hardly seems a journalistic breakthrough, two, I tried it and I didn’t see what the big fuss was….

Other Nominees:

Magazines
Miscellaneous print/online
Broadcast

The Chicago Reader and Sky Full of Bacon earned a nomination at the James Beard Awards today, the biggest awards in the food world. The Whole Hog Project, consisting of Mike Sula’s extensive series of articles and blog posts on mulefoot pigs, plus There Will Be Pork, my two-part video podcast on the same subject, was nominated in the Food Journalism/Multimedia category.

Here are the two parts, if you’ve never seen them:


Sky Full of Bacon 05: There Will Be Pork (pt. 1) from Michael Gebert on Vimeo


Sky Full of Bacon 06: There Will Be Pork (pt. 2) from Michael Gebert on Vimeo.

Incidentally, three of the restaurants featured in those podcasts are up for restaurant awards: Paul Kahan of Blackbird for best chef, Koren Grieveson of Avec (she’s not in it, but one of her chefs, Justin Large, is) for best chef Great Lakes, and The Publican for design/graphics. Other Chicago nominees include Monica Eng (twice), Carol Mighton Haddix and Phil Vettel of the Trib, Steve Hungry Hound Dolinsky, and the Alinea cookbook.

Here’s the Reader’s announcement, which mentions Sky Full of Bacon.